We arrive in Marrakech and say our fond farewells to our guide. Heading to the main square, the Djemaa el Fna, we have to bob and weave our way through a constant stream of mopeds. In Morocco there are over 500 times more moped-owners than car-owners, and it is not at all unusual to see anyone, from hipsters to old ladies with their shopping, sitting atop of one. We head to a cheap hotel, slightly off the Djemaa el Fnam, and for a small fee, we negotiate to sleep up on the roof.

As the sun sets, we explore the square with all its exciting commotion. There are stalls selling